A Little Drive Through the Highlands

By early ought-four, Amy was married to a gentleman from the prospering field of high technology. Her new husband was transferred to his employer’s London office, and the couple established residence in Windsor, a half hour train ride east. Near that time, our youngest, Christopher, and his girlfriend, Erica, went to live in Edinburgh, Scotland. A graduate of culinary school, Chris had acquired a youth work permit for the United Kingdom and had been working at an Italian restaurant in the city for a several months. Encouraged by our children to visit them, Kathleen and I found someone to care for our pets, packed our bags, and headed for the UK for a two week vacation.

In Edinburgh one morning we rented a car. With Chris and Erica, the four of us crowded into a new compact Ford. It was late in the kid’s stay in Scotland. They had endured a rough winter. Rougher, they said, than any they had experienced in the Pacific Northwest. Now in the first twinkling of Spring, they were eager to move on. They were free to explore the countryside.

The Ford had a manual stick-shift using the familiar sequence. But with the steering wheel on the right side of the car, the shifting had to be done with the left hand. More awkward than that; we needed to drive on the left side of the road. Chris and Erica, yet minors, were prohibited by the rental agreement to get behind the wheel. So the driving was up to Kathleen and me. A straw was drawn, and it was me to start us out. Out of the city, along a bit of freeway before pulling off to a secondary highway and handing it over to her. I feared that I had already had enough.

Soon we were rolling along an asphalt ribbon, up through hills geometrically coated in tree farms. A river would sparkle on one side of the road awhile, then the other. One issue we had, aggravating both Kathleen and myself; the line of cars pressing into the rear view mirror. Here we were, rushing along the little highway, seemingly no larger than your or my driveway, with wild abandon, and everyone back there was able to keep up with us, and, not only that, they were implying  that we should go faster.

It was afternoon when we began entering the Highlands. The scenery became more awesome. The road became more ours. I was at the wheel again, driving in wide open country, along a road ever more empty of traffic. Heavy, granite blue clouds scraped over jagged black peaks just out our windows. They dropped sheets of rain onto snow fields one could measure by the square mile. In the distance one could see it would be more of the same to the horizon; the immense, presumably silent, space above the still, massively rumpled land, an unmade bed part of Earth. It got me somewhere in my heart. There were turnouts, often at the end of a slow, steady climb, and I was compelled to pull us aside for another look, another inhale of that air, and while my companions stretched their legs, I ran about with my arms flung wide open to embrace another enormous scene, declaring my allegiance to this place with ever increasing drama.

The evening sort of sneaked up on us. We suddenly felt ourselves in a tiny ship on a vast, less-than-friendly ocean. The light purpled and blued. At the final viewpoint I got out alone, took a big look at the lengthening shadows, got back into our Ford and quickly shut the door. It was getting cold. Then I noticed that Kathleen had gone into emotional neutral, while in back they appeared to be fuming.

Okay, we haven’t the slightest idea where we will be spending the night. But what really is the problem?

Chris spoke for the back seat. All day he and Erica had felt trapped in the back of the car. They had watched the mad swirl out the windshield, not sure what we’d do first; drive into a cold river or dash head-on into oncoming traffic. No, it didn’t help, either, to come to the end of the day out in the middle of nowhere. He and Erica had decided the other plan would have been better. That would have had us taking the train for the West Coast, then ferrying on out to the islands.

It was Kathleen who insisted on us getting the car. She repeated her case; that we’d enjoy the comfort and convenience, and have the freedom to go anywhere we want. Maybe it was a mistake to have come North, though, if that’s the way everybody felt.

I turned in my seat as well as I could in order to face the children. Chris is six three and Erica is fair sized. They were jammed together at their hips and shoulders, were partially unfolded out into the available space left by the softer of our luggage, that which overflowed from the trunk.

I stated what I thought had been apparent earlier; that there were always cars on our butt. There was usually no place to pull over. Those people behind us wanted us to go faster and faster. And my other point: If Mom hadn’t rented us the car, and we hadn’t come North, then I – for one – would not have gotten to see this place. I summed up by saying, yes, I was having fun. Then I asked if anyone thought it counted when I was having fun.

That part of the conversation ended here. To wit, we urgently needed to proceed to the first warm meal and shelter we could find, especially while there was daylight. We rode West, then North into the violet air. We descended, while the mountains began to ridge and the great sweeps of land between them deepened into steep walled valleys. The grand patches of snow disappeared and the valleys filled with water. We drove along the shore of a lake. There was no longer anyone on the road but us. We still had the light. In March, perhaps, the twilight lingers reliably, enough for the dalliers to find home.

Soon, we spotted a house. It was slate roofed, two stories of white-washed stone, set in the embrace of several large, leafless trees. Lamplight warmed the downstairs. A sign at the road read that it was an inn. Up the creaky wooden stairs inside, to the second floor, there were five vacant bedrooms, of which we were cheerfully rented two. Downstairs and in the back was the dining room. There, two men and a young woman played pool. They lived nearby, and spoke barely understandable English. The four of us sat with our meals, our dark brews, finally content. Out our window, notably, daylight remained. In view, beyond some fields, between us and the failing mauve face of a rugged mountain, was the formidable liquid body of the Loch Ness, the lair of the monster.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Comments Off on A Little Drive Through the Highlands

Souvenir

“So you are an artist.” Sargent Preganis stepped around to look over my shoulder. I sat cross-legged on the ground, with the wooden board on my lap. I had gleaned it from a discarded ammo crate. I had blackened it with my Zippo lighter, and was carving away areas of its surface with my knife when Preganis came over. I looked up at him, and the forest canopy seemed a mile beyond his head.

“Well, I try,” I said.

Preganis, tall and lean, had not been with us long. Ours was the newest squad in the Company, as the more experienced Preganis was put in charge of the handful of us new guys. This happened, of all places, out in the Vietnam boondocks, and in the middle of a search and destroy mission.

“Hey!,” said the Sargent. “It looks good.”

Would have been sweet of him to allow me more time to dig into the yellowish meat of my board, but he announced the advent of our packing up and hitting the trail. It was time to put things away. I rolled up my bedding and stuffed it into my rucksack, to be beneath the canned food that would make up the day’s meals. And my other pair of socks. In the bottom of my rucksack, beneath the bedding, beneath my larder, and a layer of rain gear, was the weight, alas, of goods that lacked urgency; the novel I had started back in a rear camp, a tablet that I still meant to write in, and, though reception was a joke for the time being, a small radio. The last thing to put away was the ammo box board. That fit tidily under the cover flap up top. I cinched it down snug.

By that time, Sargent Preganis had already loaded up and was waiting at the trail, and holding our place in the Company lineup.  His pack hung from its rack like a mere sack lunch compared with mine and, frankly, everyone else’s in our squad. He had in there the articles that fit any of our customary needs. It was just minus those cultural things that the rest of us had imported, and maybe a little food, and water, as we were still pretty heavy on the water yet, with canteens hanging and stuffed in and about our gear. He had tied in, the standard tools for living in our great out of doors; gas mask and shovel. He carried the same amount of ammo we did. But he didn’t ever appear to be carrying much of anything, and when the time came, he’d saunter up the trail, as easy as you please. We sat, slipped the straps over our shoulders and worked ourselves to our feet, and hurried after him.

The mountain’s name is Nui Kui. Translated, it is “That Mountain”.  It was ‘This Mountain’ to us. It passed just beneath our noses as we climbed. It is steep in places.. The trail passes around the thick bases of the towering trees, crosses the bare roots with the look of wear. Where it comes to patches of stone, it crosses as a trough formed by centuries of scuffing feet. It guided us relentlessly upward. Once, twice, we were prompted to leave it; to step into the leathery leaf tangle, which set off crazy clouds of flying insects, caused much bigger creatures to dash this way and that, only deepening our sense of foreboding. One cry, as Preganis pointed out, is that of a lizard.

Day ends early in such a place. As a Company of soldiers, we had dragged our tails up a day’s worth of mountain. Evening had us spread out into a defensive perimeter and dug in. Time for quiet conversation and chow. Between the salty grease taste of dinner and total darkness, I finished the ammo box board. It had everything to do with the experience of being a gullible kid in a wild place, an attempt to reach back and snatch some part of the active “scene” back home – and maybe some comfort in being gone from it. Along the length of the board, in my attempt at “psychedelic” style, there read: “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club”.

“So what are you going to do with it now?” Sargent Preganis asked the following morning. “Now that it is finished.”

“Don’t really know,” I answered. To keep his skills alive, an artist will make a thing; and then he might just up and throw it away. “Doesn’t matter much.”

“Why not hand it over to me? I’ll take it home as a souvenir.”

We would be losing our squad leader soon. Preganis was close enough to leaving that he was more and more counting on it. Said he’d pack the board from there, on. So, when we moved out that morning the board was strapped across his back. It wasn’t all that heavy, of course. He carried it to the top of ‘That Mountain’, and even beyond there some.

Sargent Preganis (left), his souvenir, and some of the rest of us, on Nui Ki, 1968

Sargent Preganis (left), his souvenir, and some of the rest of us on Nui Ki, 1968